2 discoveries
A laid-back Tochigi town that breathes ceramics — climbing kilns on the hillsides, hundreds of pottery shops and studios, and twice-yearly fairs where you buy rustic Mashiko-ware straight from the people who made it.
The town that carves about 95% of Japan's shogi (Japanese chess) pieces leans all the way in — giant chess pieces on the streets, shogi-shaped everything, craftsmen you can watch at work, and an April festival played on a board of costumed humans.
