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Roadside Japan
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Tendo, the Shogi-Piece Town
🛸 Oddity

Tendo, the Shogi-Piece Town

📍 Yamagata, Tendo

The town that carves about 95% of Japan's shogi (Japanese chess) pieces leans all the way in — giant chess pieces on the streets, shogi-shaped everything, craftsmen you can watch at work, and an April festival played on a board of costumed humans.

If a town can have a hobby, Tendo’s is shogi — Japanese chess. It produces roughly 95% of all the shogi pieces in Japan, and it celebrates that fact with a wholehearted, slightly silly enthusiasm that makes it a delight to wander.

Why It’s Interesting

The whole town is in on the joke: giant shogi pieces stand in squares and parks, the manhole covers are chess pieces, and shogi motifs decorate the station and shops. You can watch master craftsmen engrave pieces by hand, try carving your own at a workshop, and learn the game at a small museum. The grand finale is the springtime Human Shogi, in which a live game is played out on a giant outdoor board by people in full samurai costume as the “pieces.” It’s the kind of single-minded local obsession that’s pure Roadside Japan.

Best Time to Visit

Year-round for the craft and workshops; late April for the spectacular Human Shogi festival (and the cherry blossoms around it).

Getting There

Everything clusters around Tendo Station on the Yamagata Shinkansen — an easy, fun half-day.

📸 Mon-chan's camera roll

Snapshots from our very good boy on the road.

Giant wooden shogi (Japanese chess) pieces standing in a town square
The town that makes 95% of Japan's shogi pieces. Even the manholes are chess.
Mon-chan and Cinnamon the squirrel posing with giant wooden shogi pieces
Cinnamon transformed into a shogi piece and tried to promote himself to king. Denied.

Where it is

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