3 discoveries
A tour of seven boiling, steaming, technicolor hot springs you absolutely cannot bathe in — cobalt-blue, blood-red, and one with crocodiles — where the only thing you soak is an egg.
A steaming red-and-ochre volcanic crater that fuels Hokkaido's most famous hot-spring town, watched over by cheerful demon statues who are basically the local mascots.
A steaming red lava dome that pushed up out of a flat wheat field in the 1940s — Japan's youngest mountain, born in wartime and lovingly documented by the local postmaster who watched it grow.